Postcard from the End of
America: Passyunk Square, Philadephia
By Linh Dinh
January 02, 2015 "ICH"
- Writing this piece, I didn’t have to
get on any bus or train, but only walk five
minutes to see Beth, someone I first met 28
years ago. Most lives are improbable, I
know, but when I listen to Beth talk, I
often find myself thinking, That can’t
possibly be true, but her facts have always
checked out, and her stories consistent,
even on a retelling many years later.
Consider her three husbands. The first,
Hayato, was a “sort of a sex champion,” Beth
told me, and since I found such a
designation bizarre, I dismissed the idea
that she had a Japanese spouse at all, but
then Beth showed me photos of herself in
Tokyo, next to Hayato on his death bed,
praying at a temple or in a sauna with a
bunch of Japanese women, etc. Hayato had
been divorced for nine years by the time he
married Beth, but when she showed up in
Japan, Hayato’s ex wife managed to corner
the younger American to whack her several
times on the back with a rod. “This is how
the women treat each other in Japan. It’s
true. This is what they do when there are no
witnesses.” For aesthetic reason, Beth had
decided to study Japanese, and it was her
tutor that had introduced her to Hayato.
After living in Philly for five years, they
only went to Japan so Hayato could see his
two daughters before dying of cancer.
Her second husband, Eduardo, was from
Venezuela, and they had found each other at
a Cat Stevens fan club’s event. He had to
fly in from Caracas. An international pow
wow of Cat Stevens nuts? Give me a freakin’
break, I thought, but then Beth pulled up a
MySpace page that had all these Cat
Stevenish tracks they had recorded together.
“That’s good. Lay your heartache down. After
all, we’ve made it through.” “There’s a
train under my feet, where the bricks have
all slit down. All the factories are
deserted, on the lonely side of town.”
Although they were both into soft rock,
Eduardo turned out to be a violent brute, so
after so many bruises, Beth had to cut
loose.
With her third, and current, husband, Farooq,
we’re entering the End of America territory
proper, for the details of their life are
very telling about the cracked state of our
union. A doctor in Pakistan, Farooq came to
the US four years ago. While working as a
waiter in an Indian restaurant, Farooq met
Beth, but after they married, he was hired
by Lutheran Medical Center in Brooklyn, so
he’s up there nearly all the time, while she
stays in Philly to tend to her new café.
Beth also does office work for a start-up
energy company.
Already, I’ve introduced you to three
immigrants, Hayato, Eduardo and Farooq, and
one refugee, Beth, but how is she a refugee?
What is Beth fleeing from? Her Americanness,
of course. Further, immigrants and refugees
are overlapping categories, with each
immigrant also a refugee to some degree, and
even a tourist is a temporary refugee. In
Cassavetes’ Husbands, three middle-aged
Americans impulsively fly to London to
escape their wives, kids, homes and
mortality, but as weekend refugees in the
UK, they’re also immigrants since they’re
desperately searching for something better,
which in their case is nothing less than
sexual renewal. What they get instead are
painfully atrocious conversations that lift
no spirit, feed no soul but, being so true
to life, only confirm the director’s genius.
With two jobs and a business, you’d think
Beth and Farooq are doing OK, but he’s only
making $12 an hour, as a house doctor, no
less, and she $11 an hour, and this
20-hour-a-week gig, Beth only got after
beating out 97 other applicants. As for the
café, it has lost $16,000 during its first
year.
“They say it takes three to five years to
build up a restaurant, but in this economy,
it will take five to seven years.”
“But you’re losing more than a thousand
every month!”
“I want to be my own boss.”
“How much are you paying in rent?”
“$700.”
“That’s so cheap!”
“Yes, but we’re also renting two apartments.
Farooq was paying $1,450 a month in Bath
Beach. That was the cheapest we could find.
Now he’s in this shared space in Borough
Park, the most Jewish part of Brooklyn. It’s
funny that this old Jewish lady is renting
to a bunch of Muslims!”
“How many people are in there?”
“Five, Farooq and four taxi drivers.”
“So how much space does he get?”
“He’s in the living room, on an air
mattress, next to a loud TV. Another guy
sleeps there too.”
“So if the others are watching TV, Farooq
can’t sleep?”
“My husband can sleep through anything. He’s
exhausted by the end of his 24-hour shift.
It’s really horrible, people don’t know.”
In middle-age, Beth’s face has gotten a bit
rounder, and her blonde hair is now always
covered by a cheery headscarf, in casual
observance of her new religion. She still
speaks in an excited voice, however, and
laughs readily. I’ve never met her husband,
but in a photograph, the younger man appears
very mellow.
Tiny, Beth’s café only has eight chairs at
one table and two brief counters, though in
the summer, another table is placed outside.
The walls are smartly decorated with paper
plates featuring drawings and praises from
customers, many of them foreign. “Ngon Wá.”
“Męme au Québec, il n’y a pas meilleur!”
Arabian Nights and three Krishnamurti books
rest among a purple glass fish on the window
ledge. On this last day of December, it was
warm enough for the door to be open. Out of
season, sunshine itself alarms, and this
entire world seems to be melting.
“Beth, I find it hard to believe your
husband is only making $12 an hour. That’s
less than what a nurse makes.”
“They can pay him that because he’s
international.”
Foreign doctors and nurses are allowed into
the US to knock wages down, but none of this
saving is passed on to American patients,
for our healthcare is by far the most
extortionary in the world. A night on an
American hospital bed will cost you $2,000,
and that’s without any treatment. If you
need stitches, be prepared to pay $500 per
jab. Once I saw a man slipped in a shopping
mall. As several onlookers came to his
assistance, he waved them off and staggered
out, holding his bleeding head. He was
apparently terrified someone would call an
ambulance and bankrupt him. Draining brains
from poor foreign countries while sucking
blood from this one, our healthcare racket
dreams of a day when all doctors will be
imported and paid next to nothing. After a
marathon shift, they can curl up on reed
mats in flop houses, and anyone who bitches
during his, say, ten-year probation will be
promptly deported. Farooq ain’t complaining,
though, because fresh off the Boeing, he has
a job, wife and hope while many natives have
none of the above.
If only business at the café would pick up,
though. In spite of many rave reviews on
Yelp, only two customers came in during the
1 ˝ hour I sat chatting with Beth, and one
bought just a token can of Coke after using
the bathroom. Yelp has been bugging Beth to
advertise. “How much do they want?” I asked.
“$299 a month. I’m not going to pay that!
They manipulate the reviews. They’re
crooks!”
“What do you mean?”
“If you don’t advertise, they’ll bury your
five-star reviews or even erase them, but if
you pay, they’ll hide your negative
reviews.”
“That’s criminal!”
“Yes, it is, and they’ve been sued too.
What’s worse is, they distort the
relationship you have with your customer.
Before, if a customer needed something,
they’d just talk to you, there is a
relationship, but now, they publicly
complain on Yelp, without talking to you.
Or, they’re totally unreasonable. Like I
explained to this one woman, my electricity
was out, so I lost $500 of food, bulk items,
and I actually didn’t have the money to buy
ham and swiss cheese. I explained to this
one woman that I had everything else,
chicken tikka masala, bacon, paneer,
whatever, just not ham and swiss, but she
kept saying, ‘I want ham!’”
“What a psycho!”
“No, I think she was a Yelper, an Elite
Yelper. They have a lot of power because
they can just go online, slander you and
destroy your business! I can usually spot
Elite Yelpers because they hardly say
anything, they huddle, and they walk all
over. One woman got behind me behind the
counter!”
“Is there coordination between Yelp and
these Yelpers.”
“I don’t think so, but the ones who post a
lot of reviews get perks. They get
discounts, meals, membership to things. They
get invited to parties.”
“So these Elite Yelpers are like enforcers.”
“Totally! They can knock you down, so you’ll
have to pay Yelp to salvage your
reputation!”
Online, there are hundreds of posts branding
Yelp an extortion racket, but the company
made $233 million in 2013, nearly quadruple
its take from 2009, so it can certainly
absorb thousands of choleric yelps, unlike
the small businesses it holds hostage. An
outfit that appears to give you access to
the local is in fact distorting or even
destroying what’s on the ground, all to make
truckloads of cash without producing
anything, but this is typical of our new
economy, where giant, rootless parasites
feast on the littlest people.
Those who flee from bosses are not just
economic but political refugees, so of
course they’d bristle at being shaken down
by a faraway snake like Yelp’s Jeremy
Stoppelman. As for those who wander the
sidewalks pushing loosies, socks, roses,
T-bone steaks or merely a song, they must
sometimes tussle with overzealous cops.
Within a few blocks of Beth’s café, there
are still dozens of small businesses, mostly
eateries, and except for a Dunkin’ Donuts,
there are no chains here, for they can’t
compete with the more carefully prepared
food from the many cheesesteak joints,
hoagie shops, pizzerie, taquerias or fancier
ristoranti. Recent decades have brought more
Asians, Mexicans, hipsters and queers, but
it’s still essentially old school Italian.
Across the street from me, unassuming
Iannelli Bakery has been around since 1910,
and strolling by on my way to Beth’s, I
could hear Roberto Murolo crooning softly
from its small outdoor speaker. What a
romantic voice, but it’s no love ballad,
however, but a fuck you, post-divorce dart,
“Femmena, si tu peggio ‘e na vipera.” Woman,
you’re worse than a viper. Basically, it’s a
Napolitano precursor to “American Woman,”
and to balance the scale a bit, consider
“Mal Hombre,” which is best in Lydia
Mendoza’s version.
When not losing her mind over Elite Yelpers,
Beth has to deal with her thieving upstairs
neighbors. Waiting until she’s busy, they’d
rush in to grab a few cans of sodas while
tossing her just a dollar. They also toss
trash bags from a second floor window into a
neighbor’s back yard. “The first time I met
them, they told me they were Greeks, but I
knew they were Romas,” Beth laughed. “I
actually said it, ‘You guys are Romas!’”
Always very resourceful and versatile, Beth
will survive one way or another, I’m sure.
She’s made money from operating a rap
recording studio, starting a line of ski
gloves, made in China, and, get this, ghost
writing papers, theses and even
dissertations for Japanese and Korean
students at UPenn, Drexel, St. Joseph and
Temple. For someone who’s never gone to
college, Beth has racked up half a dozen
PhDs or so, but only for other people.
“I wrote about Hegel, city planning, Frank
Lloyd Wright. I did the morphology of idea
in Robert Venturi, the postmodern architect.
I did Stanislavsky in the Korean theater. I
did a master thesis about the airline
industry. Overnight, I wrote about food
marketing.”
“Overnight?!”
“Yes, I can write very fast. It just flows
out. I’ve observed a lot and know what’s
cutting edge about many things.”
“But you can’t write a dissertation about
Hegel without doing some serious studying!”
“I can, I’m totally serious, because I have
this whole background of reading and
philosophy. In junior high, I was already
reading John Stuart Mill and a lot of very
advanced stuff for a kid.”
“So did you get paid well, at least?”
“No, I gave them a very reasonable price, 12
bucks an hour. I wanted steady work. I also
enjoyed being paid to learn, and I loved the
chance to get my ideas into these
institutions, you know, without having
anything to do with academics. If I was
doing it now, I’d charge ten times as much.”
“Did you lift stuff, plagiarize in any way?”
“No, never.”
I’ve written about American universities as
unscrupulous purveyors of debts and jive,
but here you have deception coming from the
students’ side. Still, there’s no way a
hastily typed dissertation by someone who’s
not deeply familiar with the subject should
ever pass muster unless there’s negligence
on the part of greedy universities. Foreign
students don’t just pay full tuition but are
often docked additional fees, and since many
are children of the elites, they spend
extravagantly while here. Unlike some actual
kids I’ve known, they don’t have to work
three jobs, shoplift or dance naked to get
an education. In 2011, international
students pumped $21 billion into the supine
American economy.
After a trip to the Yucatan, Beth also
decided to compile a Mayan/English phrase
book. With a native speaker, she spent years
on this project, and the result, unpublished
as yet, runs to 141 pages. “I’m not too well
today” is “Ma’ jach uts yanilken be’ele,”
and pronounced as “Mah hach oots yanilken
be-elay.” “My head hurts” is “Yaj in pool.”
As with so many other things Bethian, this
book sounded so unlikely until I saw it.
Born in
Vineland, New Jersey, Beth has
persistently sought out the foreign and
reinvented herself many times. Though
escaping her Americanness, she’s also
intensely American, however, for there is
nothing more us than the stubborn notion
that a new, improved self is always
possible, and the catalyst might just be
that new job, lover, wardrobe, cosmetic
surgery, self help book or lottery ticket,
etc. On a national level, many believe a
reversal of fortune will kick-start if only
the right savior is elected, so as our
despair becomes ever more acute, our
delirium over any propped up messiah will
only turn more obscene. Already, “hope” has
been thoroughly caked with bullshit.
With such an amnesiac past and chimeric
present, an American has no ground under
him, so he’s never at peace. Eternally
restless, he’s always itching to violate
borders and limits, so it’s only appropriate
that he’d park his Abrams tank in the middle
of an alien neighborhood in a country he’s
only heard about yesterday. Most casually,
he pops a Coors Lite as he points a 120mm
gun at someone’s grandma. There’s no time
for scruples, however, for the entire world
exists only to help him grow, though to
mature, he might have to lose everything
below his mon pubis, as well as the top half
of his head. Though mostly stuffed with dumb
songs and dumber slogans, with a biblical
verse wedged sideway, it’s still useful as a
holder for his kickass baseball cap.
2015 has just begun, and each New Year, I
hear less fireworks around midnight. Each
Christmas has also become more morose.
Philadelphia’s huge downtown shopping mall,
The Gallery, will shut down by the end of
January after 38 years. To evade overdue
back rents, many tenants have already
bolted, however. Interestingly, Philly’s
newspapers haven’t leaked a word about this
financial collapse, but then again, not a
day goes by without a mess of upbeat
economic ejaculations from the national
media. Constantly splattered with so much
phony optimism, I might just think the gloom
I perceive is strictly local, but since I’ve
crisscrossed this country repeatedly over
the last several years, and have talked to
countless Americans, I know for certain the
strident cheerfulness is nothing but a sick
soundtrack that bears no relation to
reality.
Among the merchants who will vacate The
Gallery is my friend, Anwar. Like Farooq,
he’s also from Pakistan. I’ve written
about Anwar, but basically, he’s an
insanely hardworking small businessman who
lost both his house and $146,000, his life
savings, during the 2008 stock market crash.
Traumatized, he swore to never touch Wall
Street again, but as the Dow gradually
resumed its levitation, Anwar ignored my
warning that it’s all rigged and dove back
in. Determined to decipher the market, Anwar
has jotted down, almost minute by minute,
its cryptic fluctuations for at least half a
year, and the result are reams of bizarre
charts that don’t add up to anything and
clearly haven’t helped him, for Anwar has
lost at least another $10,000. Do look at
samples of
Anwar’s charts and tell me my friend
hasn’t cracked.
Meanwhile, Anwar’s business has continued to
nosedive, and he’s lost money for seven
straight Christmases, since his rent is
tripled during the holiday months. On his
worst days, Anwar’s eyes are red as he
babbles about suicide, “And I wouldn’t want
my wife and children to suffer either.”
No refugee from drone strikes, Anwar is
merely an economic immigrant, but the
opportunities he found so ample even a
decade ago have been turned into dust, and
stripped of nearly everything, Anwar feels
as naked as when he arrived. Millions of
natives, however, are just as shorn, or
about to become so, and in this raw state,
will have no choice but to escape en masse
as American refugees. Soon, even you will
know what it’s like to flee with nothing but
your asshole, and I also mean you, the
insolent, niggling hypocrite with all the
correct opinions! Do you have a hypothetical
destination? Have you bought a phrase book?
Many of us, though, will merely go
underground.
Linh
Dinh
http://linhdinhphotos.blogspot.com
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